Tuesday, January 7, 2014

How to Tan Harness Leather

Except for rawhide, all leather goes through a tanning process before it is used and the process varies according to actual use of the leather product. For harness leather, which is used for work or show saddlery, you want thick and durable leather that is also soft and subtle. Doing this requires treating the leather with specific vegetable tanning agents which are powerful enough yet gentle enough to cause the desired effects.

Instructions

1  Fill half the kettle with water and put on a fire or commercial stove to boil.

2  Add the catechu, salt and alum to the water once you have reached a boil and reduce the heat to a rolling boil. Stir the water until all the salt and alum dissolve and the catechu is evenly soaked and bleeding its astrigent juices into the water.

3  Place the calfskin in the kettle and stir until it is completely saturated. Keep stirring the kettle and the calfskin every hour to make sure that it is absorbing the tanning mixture evenly.

4  Turn off the heat and cover the calfskin and the tanning mixture. Place the covered kettle and calfskin in a cool dry place and allow to soak for a minimum of six days.

5  Remove the calf hide from the tanning solution when it is done tanning and stretch it out. Hang it up in an airy place where it is open to its full width and height. Allow to dry before working with it or treating it any further.

The Different Fabrics of Raincoats and Jackets

Raincoats and rain jackets are usually made from waterproof or water-resistant fabrics. Even if the fundamental material is not waterproof, like cotton, it will be often be treated with a water-resistant coating. One such example is the famous Mackintosh raincoat, first introduced in the early 1800s, made from rubberized cotton. Shiny nylon is a popular water-repellent fabric, which inspired the nickname "slicker." Traditional coat fabrics, such as cotton and wool are frequently seen in high-fashion rainwear, while fabrics such as silk and leather appear less often in these garments. Vinyl and plastic are commonly used for children's raincoats.

Cotton

The famous Mackintosh raincoat is made from rubberized cotton, i.e., cotton fabric that has been bonded with vulcanized (chemically treated) rubber. Heavy, work-related rainwear tends to be constructed out of cotton duck or oil cloth. Tailored Burberry and London Fog brand raincoats are available in rubberized cotton, bonded cotton and raglan. Many other high-fashion raincoats are made from a smooth twill fabric called gabardine.

Wool

Wool is not inherently waterproof, but it is a durable fabric found in some raincoats --- particularly military, vintage and high-fashion garments. Wool raincoats are fairly common in Europe and in colder regions of the United States. Some raincoats made from other materials have a wool lining for extra warmth. Burberry, Crombie and Brooks Brothers are makers of heavy wool raincoats.

Gore-Tex

Gore-Tex fabrics were introduced in the 1970s and have since become very popular for outer garments and rainwear. The material is created by laminating a specially formulated membrane (similar to Teflon) to high-performance textiles, rendering them waterproof. In addition to being water-repellent, windproof and durable, Gore-Tex fabric is also extremely lightweight and breathable. Gore-Tex fabric is typically used to make active rainwear and weatherproof garments for camping, hiking and outdoor sports.

Nylon

Nylon is an inexpensive and long-lasting synthetic material that is well-suited to rainwear. It is both lightweight and weatherproof. Nylon and similar fabrics are frequently used in the production of rain ponchos and umbrellas, as well as raincoats and jackets. Since nylon rainwear is easily foldable and packable, it is ideal for traveling. Land's End, Patagonia, and L.L.Bean are some manufacturers of stylish and practical nylon rain apparel.

Vinyl

Vinyl and other plastics are typically used in children's rainwear and accessories, for example, raincoats, jackets, hats, boots and umbrellas. These materials are inexpensive, easy to clean and completely water-repellent. Vinyl can be dyed and produced in bright colors that are especially appealing to children. It is also a good material for printing bold designs, themes, cartoon characters and other fun details that kids enjoy. Vinyl, plastic and PVC raincoats are also popular with adults.

Lesson on How to Sew Pockets on a Lined Jacket

Whether you're giving an old jacket new life or creating an addition to a new purchase, sewing a pocket on a lined jacket is a project that will accessorize your garment. Making this alteration after the jacket is already finished requires some extra steps and effort. However, with a little patience and practice, you'll have the pocket sewn on by hand. Design the feature specifically for what it will hold, such as pens, a watch or your hands.

Instructions

1  Select the fabric you want to sew the pocket with. This fabric might match the color of the jacket; you can also choose fabric in a contrasting color and texture to add an extra element to the garment.

2  Iron the fabric so that it doesn't have any wrinkles.

3  Measure how large you want the pocket to be. For example, if you're going to use this pocket to hold pens, ensure a few of them can fit inside. When measuring, add 1 inch around the pocket to account for the seam. Mark the measurements in chalk on the fabric. Cut the fabric along the marked measurements.

4  Fold back the top of the pocket fabric to create a seam. Sew the seam in place across the top of the pocket to make a smooth edge.

5  Use a seam ripper to separate the jacket lining in the area you're planning to sew the pocket. You must do this, otherwise you'll sew through both sides of the jacket and see the pocket stitching on the other side. Remove only as much of the lining as you need to comfortably work the needle through the first layer of material.

6  Pin the pocket in place exactly where you want it to sit on the jacket. Try the jacket on or put it on a model to ensure the pocket is even.

7  Hand sew the pocket along the right, left and bottom edges. Use a whip stitch to hold it in place.

8  Sew the jacket's lining back in place. Use similar thread and stitching as the rest of the garment.

Monday, January 6, 2014

How to Make a Duck Jacket Soft

The men's duck jacket is a casual garment for outwear that truly encompasses practicality and which has a style so simple, it's nearly always in fashion. While the duck jacket might seem like a product of modern times, it dates all the way back to the 1700s. Even though these early garments usually consisted of flannel, modern duck jackets consist of heavy-duty canvas, blends of cotton, corduroy or quilted flannel. Duck jackets are strong, durable garments that will last for years. Some varieties of this jacket will require some breaking in first to soften the texture.

Instructions

1  Place the jacket in your washing machine and add a small amount of detergent with softening agents. Wash the jacket on a cold cycle.

2  Place the duck jacket into your dryer. Dampen three washcloths with warm water and toss them in. Add a least three dryer sheets to the cycle. Your duck jacket will be noticeably softer when it comes out.

3  Lay the jacket on a flat surface. Insert a sheet of 100-grit sandpaper onto the bottom of an electric sander.

4  Run the sander across the surface area of the jacket. Your goal is not to distress the jacket as you would a pair of jeans, but to rub off the surface layer of roughness that new duck jackets have.

5  Run a handheld vacuum across the surface area of the jacket to remove the dust from sanding. Your jacket will be noticeably softer.

How to Oil Filson Coats

Filson is a company based in Seattle, Washington, founded in 1897 by C.C. Filson, an entrepreneur with a pioneer spirit. Filson products attest to a ruggedness and durability against the most extreme elements that the company says will last for generations. If you've purchased a leather Filson jacket, you've made quite an investment. To keep this jacket looking and feeling good for years to come, oil it once or twice or year, as this will keep the suppleness of the material.

Instructions

1  Combine 1/2 cup white distilled vinegar in a basin with 1 cup linseed oil. Mix them well with a paint stirrer.

2  Dip a soft, lint-free cloth in the mixture and rub it all over the surface area of the leather jacket. Use circular motions and saturate the leather with a generous layer of the mixture.

3  Allow the mixture to soak in overnight. Rub a clean soft cloth over the surface area of the jacket the next morning, to buff it to a bright shine.

Tips & Warnings

If the leather is really dry, just use linseed oil as a straight conditioner.

How to Fix Pulls in Poly/Wool Sport Jackets

A poly/wool jacket refers to a jacket made of a blend of polyester and wool. This blend gives the wearer certain advantages, such as softness, lightness and drapability, as well as a warm and soft surface. Putting on the right jacket made from this type of fabric will also give your outfit a polished look. However, pulls, meaning snags or pills on the surface of the poly/wool blend, can prevent you from achieving such a polished look, unless you fix them properly. Snag-like pulls are the most dangerous, as they can turn into holes.

Instructions

Snag-like Pulls

1  Locate the snag on the exterior of your jacket. Use a pair of tweezers or a crochet hook to coax the pull inwards, to the inner side of the jacket.

2  Turn the jacket inside out and locate the snag that you've just pushed inwards on the other side. If your jacket has lining, you might need to remove part of the lining with a seam ripper.

3  Knot the snag using your fingers or your tweezers or crochet hook to help you. This will keep the snag from unraveling further.

4  Add a dot of clear nail polish to the knot to hold it in place.

Pill-like Pulls

5  Turn the jacket right-side out. Run a battery-operated pill-remover over the surface of the jacket. Alternatively, you can use the sticky side of industrial tape or the hook side of hook-and-loop tape.

6  Turn the jacket around, running your tool of choice around the surface area. Be sure to lift the arms and collar of the jacket to remove pills you might not even be aware of.

7  Give the jacket a good shake before replacing it in your closet or wearing it.

How to Clean Spyder Ski Jackets

Spyder ski jackets come in a variety of colors, including red, yellow and black, and are made of warm artificial material designed to keep a skier's body insulated from the cold. Spyder ski jackets don't need to be washed that often, unless you somehow get the jacket very dirty. However, washing the jacket every once in a while can restore its bright color, while re-waterproofing it will help it keep your body protected from the elements.

Instructions

1  Remove anything from the pockets of the jacket. Also remove anything that detaches from the jacket, such as a hood. Close all zippers and buttons to keep them from tearing the jacket during the washing.

2  Set the washing machine to the delicate cycle and cold wash. Add mild laundry soap to the running water and add the Spyder ski jacket. Don't add anything else to the machine while the jacket is being washed.

3  Set the machine on delicate wash with cold water once more after the first cycle has completed. Add waterproofing liquid for clothing to the washing machine. Don't add anything else to the washing machine for the second cycle.

4  Remove the jacket once it has finished the second cycle. Hang the jacket to dry.

Tips & Warnings

Waterproofing liquid for clothing can be purchased at outdoor supplies stores, camping supplies stores, and home hardware stores.

How to Make a Leather Jacket Look Vintage

Slipping on a soft, supple leather jacket with that "Rebel Without a Cause" look is an instant expression of style. New leather jackets or older jackets left in the closet lack the personality and charm of softened vintage leather. But not to worry, you can soften and distress a new leather jacket to create a vintage look with a little time, patience and a few household tools.

Instructions

1  Purchase a jacket that resembles the look of popular vintage styles. James Dean's red jacket was cropped and zipped up the front. The popular A-2 military jacket from the 1930s and '40s has a Mandarin collar -- short and stiff, and is tailored to the body. Motorcycle jackets started out as military jackets like the A-2 but by the 40s, they resembled contemporary motorcycle jackets with a side zipper and a large collar with snaps on the edge.

2  Embellish the jacket, if desired. Add vintage patches or sew on leather or cotton lettering and numbering by hand, to give your jacket a one-of-a-kind look. Add embellishments before distressing the leather, to age everything similarly and create a unified look.

3  Soak and soap the jacket. Fill a sink or bathtub with warm water and submerge the jacket. Add saddle soap in the amount recommended on the container. Agitate, roll and twist the jacket until it is thoroughly covered. Saddle soap will soften the leather. There is no need to rinse the jacket, the saddle soap works best when left on.

4  Prepare the jacket for distressing. Remove the jacket from the water, lay it flat, and dry it with a hairdryer on the low or medium setting. This will begin the aging process, giving the leather a crackled, distressed look. Drag the wire brush across the entire surface of the jacket to loosen the surface of the leather.

5  Hang up the jacket and hit the leather with a broom or baseball bat, as if beating a rug. You want to loosen the leather and show signs of wear. Optionally leave the jacket hanging outdoors for several days to add age and character.

6  Drag the jacket over gravel and dirt. Lay the jacket on the dirt and drag it a few feet at a time, stepping on it occasionally to get dirt into the skin.

7  Sand the jacket in selected areas. If you want extra wear on particular parts of the jacket such as the elbows, pockets and sides of the jacket, select a very fine sandpaper and sand these areas in a circular motion to wear the jacket evenly.

Tips & Warnings

The color of the leather may lighten depending on its quality and the dyes that were used to color it initially.

How to Wear a Loose Leather Jacket

While leather jackets are made in many shapes and sizes, a loose jacket is not ideal. A leather jacket should be smartly snug, particularly if wearing it for motorcycling. As the Department for Motor Vehicles cautions: "Loose-fitting leather will shift during riding and when that happens, the carefully placed protective armor (extra layers of leather and fabric) moves out of position." The best way to wear a leather jacket is in a style and cut neither too loose nor too tight but form-fitting. Achieve this look by trying on different styles in multiple positions to ensure comfort.

Instructions

1  Raise your arms while wearing the leather jacket. Check for tightening in the breast region of the body, which will indicate that the jacket is too tight. Ensure that when the arms are lifted, the jacket does not ride up the midriff.

2  Twist to the right and to the left. Wearing a leather jacket that is neither too loose nor too tight entails having a jacket that moves with you but does not make you feel uncomfortable.

3  Inspect the quality. Wearing a leather jacket means feeling comfortable, not just in the fit but with the quality. According to Jay Barbieri in the "Biker's Handbook," the ideal leather jacket for motorcyclists is black, heavy-gauge leather with strong zippers. Though an article in "Glamour" suggests that a light, flexible leather jacket will be more appropriate for anyone not wearing leather for for biking.

4  Look at yourself in the mirror in the leather jacket. Stand sideways to the front and while bending over. Knowing you look good in the leather jacket will help you wear the jacket with confidence.

Tips & Warnings

Ask a friend how the jacket looks and whether or not it appears to be too big or too small.

Try on leather jackets with a sweater or heavy shirt underneath to gauge that they are loose enough to accommodate fall or winter fashions.